스마시바비타 Sumathy Babitha , 신정현 Jeong Hyun Shin , 김은기 Eun Ki Kim

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Abstract

South Asian’s growing obsession with fair skin has made the cosmetic industry into a multibillion-dollar trade over the last decade alone. With reports of toxicity and potential mutagenicity of conventional skin lightening agents, cosmetic industries are looking for plant-based skin whitening formulations. In this review some potential depigmentation agents from South Asian region are discussed, including their historical background, biochemical characteristics and recent findings on their depigmenting activity.

Key Words

South Asia, depigmenting, natural products, tumeric, saffron

이정표 Jeong Pyo Lee , 박성환 Sung Hwan Park , 양성준 Seong Jun Yang , 김선미 Sun Mi Kim , 손경훈 Kyung Hun Son , 윤미옥 Mi Ok Yun , 최상숙 Sang Sook Choi

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Abstract

Betamethasone propionate, an anti-inflammatory glucocorticosteroid, was detected in cosmetics with no indication on the label of this compound as an ingredient. The product was formulated as a topical spray or shampoo and labeled to contain zinc pyrithione as the active ingredient. A thin-layer chromatographic analysis was carried out on silica gel plates to provide a first indication about the presence of a compound with steroid structure and reactivity; then high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) separation allowed the identification of the corticosteroid agent and its quantification. To identify the corticosteroid agent from these commercial samples we collected the fractions suspected to have ketol steroids by prep HPLC and identified the compound as betamethasone propionate by NMR and MS spectrometry. Then we synthesized the standard for the betamethasone 17-propionate and 21-propionate and quantitate the corticosteroids from the sample by HPLC with that standards. By this method we identified the corticosteroid compounds from some commercial cosmetics such as zinc pyrithione sprays. The finding of betamethasone propionate in the products was shown by comparison to an authenticated standard of betamethasone propionate by retention time on reverse-phase HPLC. Two of the tested products contained betamethasone propionate at the levels of 0.005 ∼ 0.02 % and the others were free of betamethasone propionate.

Key Words

glucocorticosteroid, cosmetic, betamethasone propionate, chromatography, zinc pyrithione

오미희 Mi Hee Oh , 이주은 Ju Eun Lee , 김수연 Su Yeon Kim , 김소영 So Young Kim , 박경찬 Kyoung Chan Park , 윤혜영 Hye Young Yun , 백광진 Kwang Jin Baek , 권년수 Nyoun Soo Kwon , 김동석 Dong Seok Kim

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Abstract

It has been reported that not only collagen but also elastin contribute to inhibit skin wrinkle formation. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces photo-aging on human skin. Because UV radiation increases elastase activity, it is thought that increased elastase activity could be the major reason for skin elasticity reduction and wrinkle formation by UV. In the present study to standardize elastase activity measuring system, purified elastases from porcine pancrease and human neutrophil, and cell extracts of normal human primary fibroblasts, 3T3 mouse fibroblasts, and CCD-25Sk human fibroblasts were used as various enzyme sources. Furthermore, elastase activities were compared according to concentrations of enzyme and substrate and incubation time. Phosphoramidon was used as a positive control to inhibit elastase activities of normal human primary fibroblasts and CCD-25Sk fibroblasts. However, it had no influence on the activity of porcine pancreatic elastase. Therefore, it is suggested that elastase used for testing anti-wrinkle agents should be selected carefully.

Key Words

human fibroblast, elastase, elastin, aging, wrinkle

임은진 Eun Jin Im , 하병조 Byung Jo Ha

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Abstract

Human hair is an excretory system for trace metals and thus metal content in human hair can reflect the body status. The investigation of trace elements in human hair has been correlated with the diagnosis of various diseases as well as the monitoring of deficiency statues in nutrition. Many chronic diseases may be related to mineral status, some may be related to toxic mineral. Hair samples were collected from 120 inhabitants of the city of Seoul, Korea. In this study the concentrations of 10 elements (Hg, Pb, Cd, Al, As, U, Bi, Sb, Ba, Be) in hair were determined by inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy (ICP-MS). The conclusions showed that people in Seoul, Korea were affected by some kinds of toxic minerals. The Hg concentrations of male are higher than those of female and reference range. The mean concentration of Sb was higher in the female than male and reference range. In age distribution, the mean concentration of Hg was in 40's are higher than 20's and 30's and reference range. The concentrations of Al were the highest in the 20's. After analyzing, we concluded that a compounded treatment should be conducted, which considers the variety of factors related to detoxification.

Key Words

Hair mineral analysis, Toxic, Hg, Al, Sb

배성윤 Seong Yun Bae , 이응지 Eung Ji Lee , 손락호 Rak Ho Son , 이용화 Yong Hwa Lee

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Abstract

To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham extracts (PCE) and its active component on melanogenesis. PCE showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the IC₅₀ values of 24.2 ± 2.85 μg/mL and IC₅₀ = 118 ± 0.43 μg/mL, respectively. PCE reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependant manner and decreased to about 23 % at a concentration of 20 μg/mL without cell cytotoxicity (below 100 μg/mL). And the PCE reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 18 % at concentration of 50 μg/mL. We purified one active compound from PCE and identified its structure. It was identified as patchouli alcohol, sesquiterpene family, by ¹H-NMR, ¹³C-NMR, and Mass analysis. Patchouli alcohol also inhibited ROS scavenging activities in DPPH radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the IC₅₀ values of 3.14 ± 0.12 μg/mL and 49 ± 3.24 μg/mL, respectively. Patchouli alcohol inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (IC₅₀ = 3.9 μg/mL). And the patchouli alcohol reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 40 % at concentration of 10 μg/mL. Patchouli alcohol inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that PCE and patchouli alcohol reduced melanin formation by the inhibited of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that PCE could be used as a useful whitening agent.

Key Words

melanogenesis, Pogostemon cablin Bentham, whitening, tyrosinase, patchouli alcohol

민대진 Dae Jin Min , 박녹현 Nok Hyun Park , 황정선 Jung Sun Hwang , 문성호 Sung Ho Moon , 이기현 Ki Hyun Lee , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 안수미 Soo Mi Ahn , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim

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Abstract

Problems with scalp lead to hair loss, dandruff, itchiness, and other illness. No clear causes of these problems have been found and it is difficult to treat them. Therefore, the best way to prevent and treat any problems with scalp is to maintain physiological homeostasis of scalp to keep it healthy. Recently, many scalp and hair product brands have attempted to use medicinal herbs which have been extracted in hot water and mixed with other ingredients due to mass-production and standardization issues. However, many nutrients and active substances are destroyed by hot-water extraction. Therefore, this study has applied low-temperature rendering to minimize destruction of substances to extract black beans, peony, and green tea that are known to improve conditions of scalp. Then, their contribution to the improvement of scalp health was assessed. In result, it was found that low-temperature rendering retains over two times greater anti-oxidizing strengths than hot-water extraction and that the extracts from low-temperature rendering effectively strengthen follicles and hair, moisturize scalp, and prevent itchiness. Therefore, low-temperature rendered black beans, peony, and green tea extracts can be used to make effective scalp treatments.

Key Words

low-temperature rendering technology, black bean, peony, green tea, human scalp

양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 박정옥 Jung Ok Park , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component analysis of fermented Melissa officinalis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (8.38 μg/mL) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of extract/fractions of M. officinalis. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some M. officinalis extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (0.63 μg/mL) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of M. officinalis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The M. officinalis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (5 ∼ 75 μg/mL). The inhibitory effect of M. officinalis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase of some M. officinalis extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (365 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (122.43 μg/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (94.8 μg/mL). Fractions of ethyl acetate both from ordinary and fermented M. officinalis extracts showed 2 band in TLC and 2 peak in HPLC (330 nm). In HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction, peak 1 (51.64 %) and peak 2 (48.36 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. Also, in HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract, peak 1 (4.13 %) and peak 2 (95.87 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. These results indicate that the component and content of ordinary and fermented extracts of M. officinalis are different. And the extract of M. officinalis can be used as an antioxidant.

Key Words

Melissa officinalis, rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, antioxidative activity, cosmetics

최현경 Hyun Kyung Choi , 오명진 Myoung Jin Oh , 허명준 Myeong Jun Her , 경경환 Kyeong Hwan Kyeong , 박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

UV irradiated skin cells produce reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS is known to be the primary cause of skin inflammation that is eventually leading to skin aging through decrease of collagen in the dermis. In this study, we evaluated basic efficacy of anti-aging, anti-inflammation and anti-melanogenesis using two antioxidative mineral- bio waters (Mineral-bio water 1 (MIBA-W1) and Mineral-bio water 2 (MIBA-W2)). Both antioxidative mineral- bio waters reduced TNF-α expression which was induced upon UV irradiation. MIBA-W 1 increased collagen synthesis from UVB irradiated fibroblast at 0.01 % concentration but MIBA-W2 shows slight, but linear increase. Stimulation of melanogenesis by α-MSH treatment in the cultured B16-F1 melanoma was significantly reduced by the treatment of MIBA-W2 in a dose dependent manner. Taken together, antioxidative MIBA-W1 and 2 seem to have potential applications as functional cosmetic materials.

Key Words

antioxidative mineral-bio water, TNF-α, collagen synthesis, melanin, B16-F1 melanoma

정은선 Eun Sun Jung , 이종성 Jong Sung Lee , 이지현 Jienny Lee , 허성란 Sung Ran Huh , 김영수 Young Soo Kim , 황왕택 Wang Taek Hwang , 박덕훈 Deok Hoon Park

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Abstract

Skin aging appears to be principally attributed to a decrease in both levels of Type I collagen and regeneration ability of dermal fibroblasts. It is important to introduce an efficient and safe agent for effective management of skin aging. To this end, we performed screening for anti-ageing agents and then found that vegetable peptones (pea and wheat) promoted cell proliferation of adult stem cells. Vegetable peptones may be considered as useful medium additives because it can supply nutrients, peptides, amino acids or growth factor analogues. This study was designed to investigate effects of vegetable peptones on cell proliferation/collagen production and their possible mechanisms in human dermal fibroblasts. In cell proliferation assay, vegetable peptones significantly promoted cell proliferation in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, human COL1A2 promoter luciferase and type I procollagen synthesis assays showed that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of COL1A2 promoter. In both TGF- / β1 luciferase reporter and ELISA assays, vegetable peptones was found to induce TGF- β1 production, suggesting that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of TGF- β1. When applied topically in a human skin twice a day for an 4-week period of time, vegetable peptones did not induce any adverse reactions. Therefore, based on these results, we suggest the possibility that vegetable peptones may be considered as an attractive, wrinkle-reducing candidate for topical application.

Key Words

Cell proliferation, type I procollagen, COL1A2 promoter, vegetable peptones, irritation

박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이방용 Bang Yong Lee , 이승현 Seung Hyun Lee , 한창성 Chang Sung Han , 김진국 Jin Guk Kim , 김경태 Kyoung Tae Kim , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 김영희 Young Heui Kim

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Abstract

In order to investigate the potential of a Dayflower (Commelina communis L.) extract as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics，we prepared aqueous Commelina communis L. extract We measured its mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in B16 melanoma cells. It did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase but showed melanin synthesis inhibitory activity. In a melanin synthesis inhibition assay using mouse B16―F10 melanoma cell, it suppressed melanin production up to 32 % at a concentration of 1,000 ug/mL without cytotoxicity, and also reduced cellular tyrosinase activity to above 50 % above the concentration of 250 ug/mL. In study on the melanogenic protein expressions, it had especially influence on expression of tyrosinase protein, which is a well-known key protein on melanogenesis, and tyrosinase expression was gradually decreased in a dose-dependent. Dayflower also blocked Ar-glycosylation of TRP-2, but affected on the expression of TRP-1 rather than on blocking of N-glycosylation processing. Therefore, this result suggests that aqueous Commelina communis L. extract could be used as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.

Key Words

Commelina communis, B16-F10 melanoma, anti-pigmentation, tyrosinase, N-glycosylation